:root{--bg:#191816;--bg-2:#23211e;--ink:#ede7da;--ink-2:#b8b0a2;--ink-3:#8a8377;--line:#ede7da24;--accent:#c8502f;--accent-ink:#f2a98e;--font:"Archivo", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, sans-serif;--mono:"IBM Plex Mono", "SFMono-Regular", Menlo, monospace;--measure:68ch;--gutter:clamp(20px, 4vw, 56px);--max:1440px;color-scheme:dark}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--font);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;scroll-behavior:smooth;font-size:17px;line-height:1.55}@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,:before,:after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}body{min-height:100vh;margin:0}img,iframe{max-width:100%;display:block}img{height:auto}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:3px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}a:hover{color:var(--accent-ink)}:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent-ink);outline-offset:3px}h1,h2,h3,h4{letter-spacing:-.01em;text-wrap:balance;font-variation-settings:"wdth" 96;margin:0;font-weight:500;line-height:1.1}h1{letter-spacing:-.025em;font-size:clamp(2.6rem,6.5vw,5.6rem);line-height:.98}h2{margin-top:2.4em;margin-bottom:.6em;font-size:clamp(1.7rem,3.2vw,2.6rem)}h3{margin-top:1.6em;margin-bottom:.4em;font-size:1.25rem}p{margin:0 0 1em}strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:600}ul,ol{padding-left:1.2em}li{margin-bottom:.35em}hr{border:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:3rem 0}figure{margin:2rem 0}figure img{border-radius:4px;width:100%}figcaption{color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.6rem;font-size:.9rem}.mono{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.02em;color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.78rem}.wrap{width:min(100% - 2 * var(--gutter), var(--max));margin-inline:auto}.prose{max-width:var(--measure)}.prose>h2:first-child{margin-top:0}.section{padding-block:clamp(3rem,7vw,6.5rem)}.section+.section{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.btn{border:1px solid var(--ink);color:var(--ink);border-radius:999px;padding:.7em 1.3em;font-size:.95rem;text-decoration:none;transition:background .15s,color .15s;display:inline-block}.btn:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--bg)}.btn.accent{background:var(--accent);border-color:var(--accent);color:#fff}.btn.accent:hover{background:var(--accent-ink);border-color:var(--accent-ink);color:var(--bg)}.grid{gap:clamp(16px,2.2vw,32px);margin:2rem 0;display:grid}.grid.cols-1{grid-template-columns:1fr}.grid.cols-2{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.grid.cols-3{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.grid.cols-4{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,minmax(0,1fr))}.grid .cell>:first-child{margin-top:0}.grid .cell figure{margin:0 0 1rem}.grid .cell img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px;width:100%}.grid .cell h2,.grid .cell h3{margin-top:.8rem;font-size:1.15rem}.gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:12px;margin:2rem 0;display:grid}.gallery img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px;width:100%}.gallery img:first-child:nth-last-child(2),.gallery img:first-child:nth-last-child(2)~img{aspect-ratio:3/2}.embed{background:var(--bg-2);border-radius:6px;margin:2rem 0;overflow:hidden}.embed iframe{border:0;width:100%}.embed-map iframe{filter:saturate(.7)contrast(1.05)}@media (width<=900px){.grid.cols-3,.grid.cols-4{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}@media (width<=600px){.grid.cols-2,.grid.cols-3,.grid.cols-4{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.gallery{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}.people .cell img{aspect-ratio:1;object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px}.people .cell h3{margin-top:1rem;margin-bottom:.2rem}.people .region{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.7rem;font-size:.78rem}.people .cell a{overflow-wrap:anywhere}.people .links a{word-break:break-all;margin-right:.8em;font-size:.9rem;display:inline-block}.site-header{z-index:10;position:absolute;inset:0 0 auto}.site-header .wrap{justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;padding-block:18px;display:flex}.site-header .brand img{width:auto;height:52px}.site-header nav{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;gap:clamp(14px,2.5vw,34px);font-size:.8rem;display:flex}.site-header nav a{opacity:.9;border-bottom:1px solid #0000;padding-bottom:3px;text-decoration:none}.site-header nav a:hover,.site-header nav a[aria-current=page]{opacity:1;border-bottom-color:currentColor}.site-header nav a.has-menu{position:relative}.site-header .routes-menu{background:var(--bg-2);border:1px solid var(--line);text-transform:none;min-width:300px;font-family:var(--font);letter-spacing:0;flex-direction:column;gap:0;padding:8px 0;font-size:.95rem;display:none;position:absolute;top:100%;left:0}.site-header .routes-menu a{border:0;padding:8px 16px}.site-header .routes-menu a:hover{background:#ffffff0d}.site-header .menu-wrap:hover .routes-menu,.site-header .menu-wrap:focus-within .routes-menu{display:flex}.site-header .menu-wrap{margin-bottom:-10px;padding-bottom:10px;position:relative}.site-header.solid{backdrop-filter:blur(8px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:#191816e6;position:sticky;top:0}@media (width<=720px){.site-header .wrap{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}.site-header nav{justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;width:100%;font-size:.72rem}.site-header .brand img{height:40px}}.hero{isolation:isolate;align-items:flex-end;min-height:62vh;display:flex;position:relative}.hero.tall{min-height:100svh}.hero img.bg{object-fit:cover;z-index:-2;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.hero:before{content:"";z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(#1918168c 0%,#19181626 40%,#191816bf 100%);position:absolute;inset:0}.hero .wrap{width:min(100% - 2 * var(--gutter), var(--max));padding-block:clamp(2rem,6vw,4.5rem)}.hero .kicker{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:1rem;font-size:.8rem}.hero .sub{max-width:44ch;color:var(--ink);text-wrap:pretty;margin-top:1.2rem;font-size:clamp(1.05rem,1.6vw,1.3rem)}.stats{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:0 2.4rem;margin-top:1.6rem;font-size:.82rem;display:flex}.stats b{font-family:var(--font);color:var(--ink);letter-spacing:-.02em;font-size:1.6rem;font-weight:500;line-height:1.1;display:block}.stats span{margin-bottom:.6rem;display:block}.route-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(16px,2.2vw,28px);display:grid}.route-card{color:inherit;text-decoration:none;display:block}.route-card .thumb{aspect-ratio:4/3;background:var(--bg-2);border-radius:4px;overflow:hidden}.route-card .thumb img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .4s}.route-card:hover .thumb img{transform:scale(1.03)}.route-card .num{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);margin-top:.9rem;font-size:.78rem}.route-card h3{margin:.15rem 0 .3rem;font-size:1.3rem}.route-card p{color:var(--ink-2);margin:0;font-size:.95rem}.route-card .meta{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);margin-top:.5rem;font-size:.75rem}@media (width<=900px){.route-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}}@media (width<=560px){.route-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.route-index{border-top:1px solid #ede7da59;grid-template-columns:repeat(7,1fr);margin-top:2.5rem;display:grid}.route-index a{border-right:1px solid #ede7da33;padding:.9rem .6rem 0 0;font-size:.85rem;line-height:1.25;text-decoration:none}.route-index a:last-child{border-right:0}.route-index .n{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);margin-bottom:.25rem;font-size:.75rem;display:block}@media (width<=900px){.route-index{grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr)}.route-index a{border-bottom:1px solid #ede7da33;padding-bottom:.7rem}}@media (width<=560px){.route-index{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}.trio{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:clamp(16px,2.2vw,28px);display:grid}.trio a{color:inherit;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:6px;padding:1.4rem 1.4rem 1.6rem;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .15s;display:block}.trio a:hover{border-color:var(--ink-2)}.trio h3{margin:0 0 .5rem;font-size:1.3rem}.trio p{color:var(--ink-2);margin:0}@media (width<=720px){.trio{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.site-footer{border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink-2);padding-block:3rem 2rem;font-size:.92rem}.site-footer .wrap{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;gap:2rem;display:grid}.site-footer h4{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.05em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-3);margin:0 0 .8rem;font-size:.75rem;font-weight:500}.site-footer ul{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.site-footer a{text-decoration:none}.site-footer .fine{border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink-3);flex-wrap:wrap;grid-column:1/-1;justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;margin-top:1rem;padding-top:1.2rem;font-size:.8rem;display:flex}@media (width<=720px){.site-footer .wrap{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.site-footer .brand-col{grid-column:1/-1}}.page-body{padding-block:clamp(3rem,6vw,5rem)}.page-body .prose img:not(.grid img):not(.gallery img){width:100%}.route-nav{border-top:1px solid var(--line);justify-content:space-between;gap:1rem;margin-top:4rem;padding-top:2rem;font-size:.95rem;display:flex}.route-nav a{text-decoration:none}.route-nav .n{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);margin-bottom:.2rem;font-size:.75rem;display:block}.aside-links{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:6px;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.8rem 1.6rem;margin:2.5rem 0;padding:1.2rem 1.4rem;display:flex}.aside-links .lbl{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.78rem}@media (width<=600px){.stats{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:.4rem 1.2rem;display:grid}.stats span{color:var(--ink);text-shadow:0 1px 6px #0009}}.hero .wrap{padding-top:max(clamp(2rem,6vw,4.5rem),8rem)}@media (width<=720px){.hero .wrap{padding-top:10rem}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(2rem,9vw,2.8rem)}}.route-bar{z-index:9;-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:#191816eb;position:sticky;top:0}.route-bar .wrap{align-items:center;gap:1.5rem;min-height:60px;display:flex}.route-bar .facts{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);white-space:nowrap;gap:1.4rem;font-size:.78rem;display:flex}.route-bar .facts b{font-family:var(--font);color:var(--ink);margin-right:.3em;font-size:1rem;font-weight:500}.route-bar .jump{scrollbar-width:none;gap:.2rem;margin-left:auto;display:flex;overflow-x:auto}.route-bar .jump::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}.route-bar .jump a{color:var(--ink-2);white-space:nowrap;border-radius:999px;padding:.45em .8em;font-size:.88rem;text-decoration:none}.route-bar .jump a:hover{color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg-2)}.route-bar .actions{gap:.5rem;display:flex}.route-bar .actions .btn{white-space:nowrap;padding:.5em 1em;font-size:.85rem}@media (width<=900px){.route-bar .wrap{flex-wrap:nowrap;gap:1rem}.route-bar .facts,.route-bar .actions .btn.secondary{display:none}}.map-panel{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 320px;align-items:start;gap:2rem;display:grid}.map-panel .embed{margin:0}.map-panel .side{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;padding:1.4rem}.map-panel .side h3{margin:0 0 .6rem;font-size:1.1rem}.map-panel .side p{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem}.map-panel .side .btn{margin-top:.4rem;margin-right:.4rem}.map-panel .side dl{grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:.35rem 1rem;margin:1rem 0 1.2rem;font-size:.92rem;display:grid}.map-panel .side dt{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);padding-top:.2em;font-size:.75rem}.map-panel .side dd{margin:0}@media (width<=900px){.map-panel{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.route-content{max-width:none}.route-content>p,.route-content>h2,.route-content>h3,.route-content>ul,.route-content>ol{max-width:var(--measure)}.route-content>.grid,.route-content>.gallery,.route-content>.embed,.route-content>figure{max-width:1100px}.route-content>p:first-child{font-size:1.12rem;line-height:1.6}.route-content>h2{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:3rem;padding-top:1rem}.route-content figcaption{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);letter-spacing:.01em;margin-top:.5rem;font-size:.75rem}.route-content .grid .cell figure+figure{margin-top:1.2rem}.day{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:3.5rem 0 0;padding:2.2rem 0 .5rem;position:relative}.day>h2{border:0;margin-top:0;padding-left:3.2rem;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.6vw,2.1rem)}.day>h2:before{content:counter(day);counter-increment:day;border:1px solid var(--ink-2);width:2.3rem;height:2.3rem;font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink);border-radius:50%;place-items:center;font-size:.85rem;display:grid;position:absolute;top:2.35rem;left:0}.route-content{counter-reset:day}.day h3{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-3);margin:2rem 0 .6rem;font-size:.78rem;font-weight:500}.day>p,.day>ul,.day>h3{max-width:var(--measure)}.day>.grid,.day>.gallery,.day>.embed,.day>figure{max-width:1100px}.day>.embed{margin:1.6rem 0 2rem}.day>figure{margin:1.6rem 0}.box{background:var(--bg-2);max-width:var(--measure);border-left:3px solid var(--accent);border-radius:8px;margin:2rem 0;padding:1.6rem 1.8rem 1.2rem}.box h3{font-family:var(--font);letter-spacing:0;text-transform:none;color:var(--ink);margin:0 0 .8rem;font-size:1.15rem}.box p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.box figure{margin:1rem 0}.chip{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.02em;border:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink-2);border-radius:999px;margin:0 .4em .5em 0;padding:.35em .8em;font-size:.75rem;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .15s,color .15s;display:inline-block}.chip:hover{border-color:var(--ink);color:var(--ink)}.people .links{margin-top:.8rem}.people .cell p{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem}.people .cell h3{font-size:1.2rem}.subnav{z-index:9;-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(10px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:#191816eb;position:sticky;top:0}.subnav .wrap{scrollbar-width:none;align-items:center;gap:.2rem;min-height:56px;display:flex;overflow-x:auto}.subnav .wrap::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}.subnav a{color:var(--ink-2);white-space:nowrap;border-radius:999px;padding:.45em .9em;font-size:.9rem;text-decoration:none}.subnav a:hover{color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg-2)}.topic{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,4.5rem) 0;scroll-margin-top:70px}.topic:first-of-type{border-top:0;padding-top:1rem}.topic h2{margin-top:0;font-size:clamp(1.6rem,2.8vw,2.3rem)}.topic .topic-text{max-width:var(--measure)}.topic figure{margin:0}.topic figure img{aspect-ratio:4/3;object-fit:cover;border-radius:6px}.topic.has-figure{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,7fr) minmax(0,5fr);align-items:start;gap:clamp(2rem,4vw,4rem);display:grid}.topic.has-figure:nth-of-type(2n){grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr)}.topic.has-figure:nth-of-type(2n) figure{order:-1}.topic.has-figure figure{position:sticky;top:80px}.topic ul{padding-left:0;list-style:none}.topic ul li{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:0;padding:.7rem 0}.topic ul li:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}@media (width<=800px){.topic.has-figure,.topic.has-figure:nth-of-type(2n){grid-template-columns:1fr}.topic.has-figure:nth-of-type(2n) figure{order:0}.topic.has-figure figure{position:static}}.cta-panel{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg-2);border-radius:10px;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) auto;align-items:center;gap:1.5rem 3rem;margin-top:4rem;padding:clamp(1.6rem,3vw,2.6rem);display:grid}.cta-panel h2{border:0;margin:0 0 .4rem;padding:0;font-size:clamp(1.4rem,2.4vw,1.9rem)}.cta-panel p{color:var(--ink-2);max-width:52ch;margin:0}.cta-panel .actions{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.6rem;display:flex}@media (width<=720px){.cta-panel{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.route-nav{border:0;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:1.5rem;margin-top:3rem;padding:0;display:grid}.route-nav a{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;grid-template-columns:96px 1fr;align-items:center;gap:1rem;padding:.8rem;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .15s;display:grid}.route-nav a:hover{border-color:var(--ink-2);color:inherit}.route-nav a.next{text-align:right;grid-template-columns:1fr 96px}.route-nav a.next img{order:2}.route-nav img{object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px;width:96px;height:72px}.route-nav .n{margin-bottom:.15rem}.route-nav .t{font-size:1.05rem}@media (width<=600px){.route-nav{grid-template-columns:1fr}.route-nav a.next{grid-template-columns:1fr 96px}}.lightbox{z-index:100;cursor:zoom-out;background:#0c0b0af0;place-items:center;padding:3vh 3vw;display:none;position:fixed;inset:0}.lightbox.open{display:grid}.lightbox img{object-fit:contain;border-radius:4px;max-width:100%;max-height:94vh;box-shadow:0 20px 60px #0009}.lightbox .cap{text-align:center;font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-2);pointer-events:none;font-size:.8rem;position:absolute;bottom:1.2rem;left:0;right:0}.lightbox .close{border:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer;background:0 0;border-radius:50%;width:40px;height:40px;font-size:1.2rem;position:absolute;top:1rem;right:1rem}.gallery img,.grid .cell img,.route-content>figure img,.day>figure img,.box figure img{cursor:zoom-in}.gallery img{transition:opacity .2s}.gallery img:hover{opacity:.88}.intro{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr);align-items:start;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,6rem);display:grid}.intro .statement{letter-spacing:-.015em;font-variation-settings:"wdth" 96;text-wrap:pretty;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.6vw,2.2rem);line-height:1.2}.intro .statement em{color:var(--accent-ink);font-style:normal}.intro .text{max-width:var(--measure)}.intro .text p{color:var(--ink-2)}@media (width<=800px){.intro{grid-template-columns:1fr}}[id]{scroll-margin-top:80px}.day>.embed iframe{height:520px}.ic{fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.75px;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round;flex:none;width:1.25em;height:1.25em}.route-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;align-items:start;gap:clamp(2rem,4vw,5rem);display:grid}.route-layout .route-content{min-width:0}.rail{flex-direction:column;gap:1rem;display:flex;position:sticky;top:76px}.rail .card{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;padding:1.2rem 1.3rem}.rail h4{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-3);margin:0 0 .8rem;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:500}.rail .ends{gap:.6rem;display:grid}.rail .ends div{align-items:flex-start;gap:.7rem;display:flex}.rail .ends .ic{color:var(--accent-ink);margin-top:.15em}.rail .ends small{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);font-size:.7rem;display:block}.rail .ends b{font-weight:500}.rail ol{margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.rail ol li{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.rail ol li:first-child{border-top:0}.rail ol a{color:var(--ink-2);padding:.5rem 0;font-size:.92rem;text-decoration:none;display:block}.rail ol a:hover{color:var(--ink)}.rail ol a .n{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);margin-right:.6em;font-size:.7rem}.rail .btn{text-align:center;width:100%}.rail .btn+.btn{margin-top:.5rem}@media (width<=1100px){.route-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.rail{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(240px,1fr));display:grid;position:static}.rail .days{display:none}}.stays{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(300px,1fr));gap:1.2rem;margin:1.5rem 0 2.5rem;display:grid;max-width:none!important}.stay{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg-2);border-radius:8px;flex-direction:column;display:flex;overflow:hidden}.stay h4{justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:.8rem;margin:0;padding:1rem 1.2rem .4rem;font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:500;display:flex}.stay .when{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.05em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--accent-ink);white-space:nowrap;font-size:.7rem}.stay p{color:var(--ink-2);flex:1;margin:0 0 1rem;padding:0 1.2rem;font-size:.93rem}.stay p strong{color:var(--ink)}.stay .embed{border-radius:0;margin:0}.stay .embed iframe{height:200px}.topic ul li{align-items:flex-start;gap:.9rem;display:flex}.topic ul li .li-body{flex:1;min-width:0}.topic ul li .ic{width:1.5rem;height:1.5rem;color:var(--accent-ink);margin-top:.1em}.topic>.topic-text>h2{align-items:center;gap:.7rem;display:flex}.topic h2 .ic{width:1em;height:1em;color:var(--ink-3)}.topic .topic-text>p:has(>strong:first-child){border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:.8rem}.seasons{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:1rem;margin:1.2rem 0;display:grid}.season{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;padding:1.1rem 1.2rem}.season h4{align-items:center;gap:.6rem;margin:0 0 .5rem;font-size:1.05rem;font-weight:500;display:flex}.season h4 .ic{color:var(--accent-ink)}.season h4 small{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);margin-left:auto;font-size:.7rem}.season p{color:var(--ink-2);margin:0;font-size:.93rem}.season[data-icon=spring]{border-color:#f2a98e80}@media (width<=560px){.seasons{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.topic.side{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,4fr) minmax(0,8fr);gap:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,5rem);display:grid}.topic.side>h2{margin:0;font-size:clamp(1.6rem,2.8vw,2.3rem);position:sticky;top:80px}.topic.side>.grid{grid-column:1/-1}.topic.side.intro-topic{grid-template-columns:1fr}.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,5fr) minmax(0,7fr);align-items:start;gap:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,5rem);max-width:none;display:grid}.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text p:first-child{letter-spacing:-.015em;text-wrap:pretty;grid-column:1;font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.4vw,2.1rem);line-height:1.2}.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text p:not(:first-child){max-width:60ch;color:var(--ink-2);grid-column:2;font-size:1.05rem}@media (width<=800px){.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text{grid-template-columns:1fr}.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text p:first-child{grid-row:auto}.topic.side.intro-topic .topic-text p:not(:first-child){grid-column:1}.topic.side{grid-template-columns:1fr}.topic.side>h2{position:static}}.page-body .wrap:not(.map-panel){max-width:1200px}.route-layout{max-width:1440px}.hero .kicker+h1{margin-top:.2rem}h1.light{font-variation-settings:"wdth" 100;letter-spacing:-.02em;max-width:18ch;font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5.6vw,4.6rem);font-weight:400}.hero img.cover-home{object-position:70% 50%}@media (width<=720px){.hero img.cover-home{object-position:78% 50%}.hero.tall{min-height:100svh}.hero.tall .wrap{padding-bottom:38vh}}.site-header nav .icon-link{border:0;align-items:center;display:inline-flex}.site-header nav .icon-link .ic{width:1.15rem;height:1.15rem}.site-footer .wrap{grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1fr}@media (width<=720px){.site-footer .wrap{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}.trio a{padding:0;overflow:hidden}.trio a img{aspect-ratio:3/2;object-fit:cover;width:100%;transition:transform .4s}.trio a:hover img{transform:scale(1.03)}.trio h3{margin:1.1rem 1.4rem .4rem}.trio p{margin:0 1.4rem 1.4rem}.feature-band{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--bg-2);border-radius:10px;grid-template-columns:auto auto minmax(0,1fr) auto;align-items:center;gap:1.2rem 2rem;margin-bottom:clamp(2rem,4vw,3.5rem);padding:1.2rem 1.6rem;text-decoration:none;transition:border-color .15s;display:grid}.feature-band:hover{border-color:var(--ink-2);color:inherit}.feature-band .lbl{font-family:var(--mono);letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--ink-3);font-size:.72rem}.feature-band .name{letter-spacing:.02em;font-weight:600}.feature-band .txt{color:var(--ink-2);font-size:.95rem}@media (width<=800px){.feature-band{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:.5rem}}.topic.side>h2{position:static}.agg{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:3.5rem;padding-top:1rem}.agg>h2{border:0;margin-top:0;padding:0}.agg .lead{color:var(--ink-2);max-width:var(--measure)}.hl-list{gap:.2rem;max-width:1100px;margin:1.5rem 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.hl-list li{border-top:1px solid var(--line);grid-template-columns:8rem minmax(0,1fr);gap:1.2rem;padding:.9rem 0;display:grid}.hl-list li a{font-family:var(--mono);color:var(--ink-3);font-size:.75rem;line-height:1.5;text-decoration:none}.hl-list li a:hover{color:var(--ink)}.hl-list li p{color:var(--ink-2);margin:0}@media (width<=560px){.hl-list li{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:.3rem}}.backstories{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:1.2rem;max-width:1100px;margin-top:1.5rem;display:grid}.backstories .box{max-width:none;margin:0}@media (width<=800px){.backstories{grid-template-columns:1fr}}.backstories .box .grid{margin:0;display:block}.backstories .box .grid .cell+.cell{margin-top:1rem}.backstories .box .grid .cell img{aspect-ratio:3/2}