Tours 6 days - Riding Time 45h - Distance 325 km - Elevation 8.030m
crossing Geopark Mgoun
This fabulous tour follows the Atlas mountain range from south-west to north-east through the UNESCO Geopark M'Goun. Beside the geosites with dinosaur footprints, amazing fossils and cave paintings, the park contains the most stunning landscapes as well as historic and cultural highlights.
You’ll pass the famous "Cathedral", a table mountain, and see rivers with rapids on which rafting is practiced. With a little luck you’ll be able to spot monkeys, the iconic bearded vulture or even wolf-jackals. Also the cultural heritage is remarkable. In the Amazigh villages you’ll be able to see the traditional adobe tower stores for grain and sacred places.
The trail diversity is amazing. From the El Ouidane lake to the apple plantations close to Midelt you will cross rivers and canyons, pine and carob forests, high altitude pastures as well as smooth colored sand dunes ranging from black to almost white.
Fitness and Technicality - The Geopark Mgoun Tour is partly tough. Especially day 3 and 4 are demanding in terms of distance and elevation as well as technical challenges. On day 3 there is one ascent, almost 1000 meters in elevation, which is too steep to ride.
You’ll pass the famous "Cathedral", a table mountain, and see rivers with rapids on which rafting is practiced. With a little luck you’ll be able to spot monkeys, the iconic bearded vulture or even wolf-jackals. Also the cultural heritage is remarkable. In the Amazigh villages you’ll be able to see the traditional adobe tower stores for grain and sacred places.
The trail diversity is amazing. From the El Ouidane lake to the apple plantations close to Midelt you will cross rivers and canyons, pine and carob forests, high altitude pastures as well as smooth colored sand dunes ranging from black to almost white.
Fitness and Technicality - The Geopark Mgoun Tour is partly tough. Especially day 3 and 4 are demanding in terms of distance and elevation as well as technical challenges. On day 3 there is one ascent, almost 1000 meters in elevation, which is too steep to ride.
We follow the Assif Melloul river, swimming breaks included
Many encounters with nomad shepherds, curious and always happy to lead the way
|
The only way to the accomodation leads over this small bridge
Arriving at the Isli lake around Imilchil on over 2.200m altitude
|
Red sand stone makes for great trails around Bin El Ouidane
The lush valley of Anergui is an oasis in the rocky arid Atlas
|
Access and Logistics
Point of Departure: Bin el Ouidane; Point of Arrival: Midelt
The main logistical challenge if you come with your own car is the big distances between the starting point (Bin el Ouidane) and the final destination (Midelt) and how to organize pick up for the return. We recommend contacting a member of our community Mohamed Outili or Mohamed Oujenda who can help to organize the transport.
The starting point Bin el Ouidane is easiest to reach by car in about 4h15 from Rabat and 3h30 from Casablanca. Before getting there, you will pass the city of Beni Mellal, where you might want to buy last provisions for the trip or get cash. Bin el Ouidane is a well known and touristic place famous for the reservoir built in 1954. Several nice boutique hotels and guesthouses spread around the lake that however had very little water the past six years and in 2024 reached a historic rock bottom with only 7% of its capacity.
Between Beni Mellal and Midelt the trail will pass only a few villages and the small town of Imilchil almost half way of the tour. It is still a remote place but there are taxis and buses and in case of any emergency, help could be organized here. Otherwise you’ll only cross small villages (douars) where you can find only the most basic provisions (nuts, vegetables, dates etc.). You should always carry the water you need for the day. Even if there are some mountain creeks,you can never be sure to find clean water.
Arrival in the city of Midelt famous for its apple production at the most eastern flank of the High Atlas. Again there you’ll find a variety of accommodations and other facilities such as banks, workshops and public transport.
Phone and 4G connection is surprisingly good, almost throughout the whole trip. Even on the high plateau (day 3) at over 2.500m we could mostly find a network.
The main logistical challenge if you come with your own car is the big distances between the starting point (Bin el Ouidane) and the final destination (Midelt) and how to organize pick up for the return. We recommend contacting a member of our community Mohamed Outili or Mohamed Oujenda who can help to organize the transport.
The starting point Bin el Ouidane is easiest to reach by car in about 4h15 from Rabat and 3h30 from Casablanca. Before getting there, you will pass the city of Beni Mellal, where you might want to buy last provisions for the trip or get cash. Bin el Ouidane is a well known and touristic place famous for the reservoir built in 1954. Several nice boutique hotels and guesthouses spread around the lake that however had very little water the past six years and in 2024 reached a historic rock bottom with only 7% of its capacity.
Between Beni Mellal and Midelt the trail will pass only a few villages and the small town of Imilchil almost half way of the tour. It is still a remote place but there are taxis and buses and in case of any emergency, help could be organized here. Otherwise you’ll only cross small villages (douars) where you can find only the most basic provisions (nuts, vegetables, dates etc.). You should always carry the water you need for the day. Even if there are some mountain creeks,you can never be sure to find clean water.
Arrival in the city of Midelt famous for its apple production at the most eastern flank of the High Atlas. Again there you’ll find a variety of accommodations and other facilities such as banks, workshops and public transport.
Phone and 4G connection is surprisingly good, almost throughout the whole trip. Even on the high plateau (day 3) at over 2.500m we could mostly find a network.
Accomodation
Although you come through remote and deserted areas of the High Atlas, you will find simple but very nice famaly run mountain hostels or gîtes all through the tour. On the very last day we were invited to stay in a private family house. These homestay experiences are very rewarding. People are extremely welcoming and friendly, local food is simple but clean and very tasty and you are offered a canapé or mattress on the floor in the “Salon Marocain”.
|
Bin El Ouidane (point of departure)
Hotel Bin El Ouidane: a very well equipped and charming hotel with a pool and all the amenities. There are plenty of other options if this Hotel should be fully booked. Cathédrale (day 1)
Auberge à la Cathedrale Imsfrane: You will be received by Mostapha Outili in his comfortable and charming guest house. We highly recommend Mostapha’s rafting and hiking tours for those who have time to further explore this region Anergui (Day 2)
Auberge Assif Melloul: very charming and nicely decorated mountain hostel with hammam where you can fully recover. Here you can book your muleteer and your mule for the next day. The owners of the guesthouse also organize tours with bivouacs. |
Imilchil (Day 3)
Gîte Zaid Ouachoua: Gîte rund by Fatima, the widow of the former Mountain Guide Zaid and her daughters. Tel +212 666 646504 Imilchil is a small town is a popular place for local tourism and trade in the High Atlas. Agoudim (Day 4):
Auberge Ouaba Agoudim: Simple but absolutely clean and cozy mountain hostel, run by Driss and his wife. Tel: +212 613 032825 |
Cirque de Jafaar (day 5)
Driss: Option to stay with the mountain shepherds directly in the cirque de Jafaar (Driss +212 648 805676) in a simple clay farm house without electricity nor running water. Alternatively sleep at Gite Taouraout run by our community network member Mohammed Oujenda a few kilometers down the valley Midelt (Day 6)
Riad Villa Pomme d'Or: a real Hotel where you can recover in the pool or in the sauna and enjoy a good restaurant. There are plenty of other options in town, but the Pomme d'Or is highly recommended. |
Local Tourism Network
As all accommodation on the route is in professional mountain hostels, organisation of the whole trip is rather easy as long as you reserve in advance to avoid finding an accommodation being closed when you arrive. For additional information you can reach out to the members of the Atlas Mountain Trail network
As all accommodation on the route is in professional mountain hostels, organisation of the whole trip is rather easy as long as you reserve in advance to avoid finding an accommodation being closed when you arrive. For additional information you can reach out to the members of the Atlas Mountain Trail network
- Mostapha Outili (Cathédrale) +212 661313761
- Mohamed Oujenda (Cercle de Jafaar) +212 677946783
And here is the daily logbook
Day 1: Bin El Ouidane - La Cathédrale
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
The day begins around the lake of Bin el Ouidane. Depending on the level of water you can choose your crossing. When we did the tour the lake was dry enough to cross a big part of the lake through mud hills, swamps and sediments. On the other side you have to find the trail towards Aït Mazigh. Here a long climb of 1,000m elevation starts with very steep parts but most of it on asphalt. The village of Aït Mazigh is where the local market takes place. You can stop for a coffee and watch the busy traders and fill your bottles. After another 3km you reach the provincial road 302 that will lead you all the way to Imsfrane, the small village on the foot of Cathédrale. The road is paved but not at all busy. You can enjoy the views and at km 33 you have reached the highest point of today's tour when you cross Jbel La’bbadine’s Tazardount pass at 1,831 m. From there it is almost all downhill in a smooth descent until you see the impressive Jbel Imsfrane or “La Cathédrale” as the mountain is called in french.
Highlights and challEnges
- Riding through the dried lake bottom early in the morning is an odd kind of experience as the sediments are full of shells and you come by small wrecks from fisher boats that have sunk in the past.
- The ride alongside Jbel La’bbadine offers absolutely scenic views down the Bin el Ouidane valley.
Day 2: Cathédrale - Anergui
Fitness/Endurance: Low
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
Arguably this is at the same time the easiest and the most scenic leg of the tour. You start in the pine forest in the shade of the La Cathèdrale following the Assif Melloul valley all the way up to Anergui. You will follow a dirt road winding its way close to the river crossing it several times until km 30 when it climbs a newly built stretch up to the Anergui plateau at 1,500m. An alternative way (probably the former mule path) continues in the river bed. You can see it from above, however it is not clear in what condition it is.
Apart from the last kilometers before Anergui there are no steep slopes to climb. The Assif Melloul offers a great number of possibilities to take a bath in a pool or rest on the shady river banks. If you are lucky you can see families of monkeys (Macaque de Barberie) playing in the trees. Reaching the plateau of Anergui you are surrounded by impressive Atlas giants: Jbel Lfechtene 2.851m; Kfart 2.915m; El Adi-n-Issermad 3.236m.
You cross the village on the main road and ride the last 7 km towards the end of the open plateau where Assif Melloul comes out of a canyon with steep mountains on both sides. The road leads you to the Auberge Assif Melloul douar called Ait Boulmane with two highly visible clay and stone citadels serving as silos.
Apart from the last kilometers before Anergui there are no steep slopes to climb. The Assif Melloul offers a great number of possibilities to take a bath in a pool or rest on the shady river banks. If you are lucky you can see families of monkeys (Macaque de Barberie) playing in the trees. Reaching the plateau of Anergui you are surrounded by impressive Atlas giants: Jbel Lfechtene 2.851m; Kfart 2.915m; El Adi-n-Issermad 3.236m.
You cross the village on the main road and ride the last 7 km towards the end of the open plateau where Assif Melloul comes out of a canyon with steep mountains on both sides. The road leads you to the Auberge Assif Melloul douar called Ait Boulmane with two highly visible clay and stone citadels serving as silos.
Highlights and challEnges
- The ride through the Assif Melloul valley is impressive because of the varieties of forests and plants such as great carpets of cactuses and the scenic views. Reaching the Anergui plateau you find yourself in green wheat and sorghum fields.
- Auberge Anergui is a charming place with a lot of comfort and even a Hammam to recover from the trip. As it takes a while to heat you should call in the morning to book the hammam. Another nice activity at sundown is a walk through the terraces and the picturesque village.
Day 3: Anergui - Imilchil
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: High
Technicality: High
This tour is demanding not only because of the distance and the elevation but also due to a steep hike of 1,000m. The day starts with a short but steep ascent on a newly built, rather overdimensioned, mountain road with spectacular hairpin curves (we hope the landscape quickly recovers from this mercyless construction). After the pass the road drops down again in the Assif Melloul valley back on 1,600m almost the same altitude we left in Anergui. This is where the hiking starts. We highly recommend hiring a mule and a muleteer for the ascent of the Amalou n-Kousser at 2,700 in the Ait Khouya Hmad massif. The slopes reach a gradient of 30% before you finally arrive on the high plateau (km 16). From there the ride leads you along the summer grazing grounds of the nomads. Different settlements can be seen in the green pastures and people stop you asking for any kind of support and mainly for medicine. Living conditions are difficult in this harsh environment. At km 24 you reach the highest point of the day at Tisi n Titar (2,745 m).
From here you dive in a sea of debris of all sizes and shapes that doesn't seem to end. Be ready to rumble almost 15 km mostly downhill until you are back in the Assif Melloul valley. At this point the river is rather a rapid mountain creek surrounded by steep mountains. The entry to the river bed goes through gorges of washed rocks which we found by accident. It is rideable and absolutely thrilling. Follow the river bed which is mostly rideable even through shallow water. Soon you’ll arrive in a village called Ou el Ghazi and reach a small mountain road on which you can enjoy a mellow ride for the last 20 km to Imilchil. As a compensation for all the stone deserts you have crossed, the landscape now offers fantastic views of green valleys, all kinds of fields and terresses and high mountains in the evening light.
From here you dive in a sea of debris of all sizes and shapes that doesn't seem to end. Be ready to rumble almost 15 km mostly downhill until you are back in the Assif Melloul valley. At this point the river is rather a rapid mountain creek surrounded by steep mountains. The entry to the river bed goes through gorges of washed rocks which we found by accident. It is rideable and absolutely thrilling. Follow the river bed which is mostly rideable even through shallow water. Soon you’ll arrive in a village called Ou el Ghazi and reach a small mountain road on which you can enjoy a mellow ride for the last 20 km to Imilchil. As a compensation for all the stone deserts you have crossed, the landscape now offers fantastic views of green valleys, all kinds of fields and terresses and high mountains in the evening light.
Highlights and challEnges
- This is one of the longest rides of the tour and an adventure from the first kilometer until the end. Among the diverse landscapes the unique high plateau and highest point of the tour, crossing the Amalou n-Kousser on 2,700m is an all time highlight.
Day 4: iMILCHIL - Agoudim
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: High
Technicality: High
A long tour with two major peaks to cross, at 2,650 and 2,406 meters. Although the second one is technically not challenging (on a paved road), save some energy for the crossing.
You’ll leave the brisk little town of Imilchil by the main road N12 direction Beni Mellal. After only 3 km we turned right on a single trail to lake Isly. If you also want to see the smaller lake Tislit, you can stay until km 7 on N12 and join a dirt road further up the valley. The two lakes are famous among all Moroccans due to the Amazigh legend (see Box).
The trail is very pleasant to ride and reaching lake Isly you can take some fun rides through sandy volcanic hills. From there the valley slowly narrows until km 18 where you have to cross a large river bed with white pebbles, follow it for a couple of kilometers and climb two small but rather steep slopes carrying your bike. The last 3km (from 22 to 25) are rideable and less steep until reaching the highest point of the tour at 2,630m. This stretch is yet another scenic high plateau on the summit of Jbel Issoual on which we met a large caravan of nomads with their animals. At the top, several shepherd huts provide shade for a rest with a great view in the Tighist valley.
The descent in the Tighist valley is long and very steep. The single trail is breakneck in the upper parts and leads through thorny bushes at the end. Riders with tube tires should be prepared for countless punctures. Most of it is technical but rideable. On some stretches you will have to dismount, because of rolling boulders and other obstacles.
Down in the valley back at 1,940 m you’ll find a mostly paved road P7319 which connects Imilchil to other small towns all the way to the middle Atlas. You’ll stay on this spectacular mountain road until reaching today's destination Agoudim. After the town of Anefgou where you can revitalize with snacks and water before the ascent of the Ari Timachmazine (almost 500m in elevation). The landscape is superb and very diverse with smaller patches of Atlas cedars on the way. The next 15 km after crossing the pass are ups and downs through very nice villages and landscapes before you are rewarded with 10km of easy downhill rolling until Agoudim. Before entering the town you’ll find the Auberge Ouaba on your right with a nice view in the wide green valley.
You’ll leave the brisk little town of Imilchil by the main road N12 direction Beni Mellal. After only 3 km we turned right on a single trail to lake Isly. If you also want to see the smaller lake Tislit, you can stay until km 7 on N12 and join a dirt road further up the valley. The two lakes are famous among all Moroccans due to the Amazigh legend (see Box).
The trail is very pleasant to ride and reaching lake Isly you can take some fun rides through sandy volcanic hills. From there the valley slowly narrows until km 18 where you have to cross a large river bed with white pebbles, follow it for a couple of kilometers and climb two small but rather steep slopes carrying your bike. The last 3km (from 22 to 25) are rideable and less steep until reaching the highest point of the tour at 2,630m. This stretch is yet another scenic high plateau on the summit of Jbel Issoual on which we met a large caravan of nomads with their animals. At the top, several shepherd huts provide shade for a rest with a great view in the Tighist valley.
The descent in the Tighist valley is long and very steep. The single trail is breakneck in the upper parts and leads through thorny bushes at the end. Riders with tube tires should be prepared for countless punctures. Most of it is technical but rideable. On some stretches you will have to dismount, because of rolling boulders and other obstacles.
Down in the valley back at 1,940 m you’ll find a mostly paved road P7319 which connects Imilchil to other small towns all the way to the middle Atlas. You’ll stay on this spectacular mountain road until reaching today's destination Agoudim. After the town of Anefgou where you can revitalize with snacks and water before the ascent of the Ari Timachmazine (almost 500m in elevation). The landscape is superb and very diverse with smaller patches of Atlas cedars on the way. The next 15 km after crossing the pass are ups and downs through very nice villages and landscapes before you are rewarded with 10km of easy downhill rolling until Agoudim. Before entering the town you’ll find the Auberge Ouaba on your right with a nice view in the wide green valley.
Highlights and challEnges
- One of the many highlights is the crossing of the Jbel Issoual mountain pass and the views in the Tighist valley from up there. The sportive highlight is the technical descent in this valley with all obstacles a good MTB cross parkour has to offer.
Lake Tislit and lake Isli - the legendThe famous lakes are located on our route from Imilchil to Agoudim. First you pass the smaller one Tislit at 7 km next to the paved road. There is a small camping spot. Lake Isli is located 10 kilometers down our trail. Both lakes are natural and at over 2000 m altitude. They are famous for their beauty, its crystal-clear waters that serve as giant mirrors, reflecting the nearby and often snowy peaks. It is a must see for tourists. For the local population the attraction is also mythological. It is the story of forbidden love. There is a story of love that grew between Tislit, from Ait Yaâza tribe, and Isli, from Ait Brahim’s, near a water source placed between the two opposing tribes. Their love was said to be so pure and genuine that they could no longer live apart. Yet, their families refused their marriage. The Amazigh Romeo and Juliet escaped and climbed a mountain to grieve their disappointment. The flow of tears was so powerful that it created the lakes, Isli and Tislit. The lovers ended up dying of sorrow. As a result of this tragedy, the two tribes decided that once a year, their young boys and girls would be allowed to marry freely. |
|
Day 5: aGOUDIM - Cirque de Jafaar
Fitness/Endurance: Medium
Technicality: Medium
Technicality: Medium
This is a relatively easy day and shorter than the two previous legs. Start the day on the paved provincial road RP7319 that quickly reaches the first pass (km7) of the day at 2,200 meters. From there follow another 7km of downhill on the paved road until the villages of Ait Abd El Fadel (km12) and Aït Bouarbi (km15). In the village of Ait Bouarbi, we leave the provincial road and climb on gravel then trails through carved sandstone, river beds and friendly pebbles for the next 10km. After a great piece of single trail downhill we arrive at the valley in Ali Ben Izguen and Ait Ouchen, from where we cross several villages and plantations of apple trees. Last possibility to buy provisions until the final destination of the tour in Midelt.
At km 28 the second albeit smooth ascent starts and brings you to the northern flank of Jbel Al Ayyachi with panoramic views in the pan between the High and the Middle Altas (Central Moroccan Province of Khénifra). At kilometer 34 you will briefly recover on a paved road but only for a few kilometers. Then you follow a forest trek through a sparse forest of the Midkane Park with some cedar giants. Exactly at km 40 you can have a rest at the park ranger’s cabanne before attacking the last 15 km to your destination: the impressive Cirque de Jafaar. If you decide to stay the night in Taouraout in the more comfortable option at the Gite of our Atlas Mountain Trail network member Mohamed Oujenda, you can take a short cut and descend on a single trail through the canyons (km45) for around 4 kilometers.
At km 28 the second albeit smooth ascent starts and brings you to the northern flank of Jbel Al Ayyachi with panoramic views in the pan between the High and the Middle Altas (Central Moroccan Province of Khénifra). At kilometer 34 you will briefly recover on a paved road but only for a few kilometers. Then you follow a forest trek through a sparse forest of the Midkane Park with some cedar giants. Exactly at km 40 you can have a rest at the park ranger’s cabanne before attacking the last 15 km to your destination: the impressive Cirque de Jafaar. If you decide to stay the night in Taouraout in the more comfortable option at the Gite of our Atlas Mountain Trail network member Mohamed Oujenda, you can take a short cut and descend on a single trail through the canyons (km45) for around 4 kilometers.
Highlights and challEnges
- No major challenges on this tour. Highlights of the tour are the smooth single tails and the transition from the rocky high mountain environment to the wider agricultural valleys around Aït Bouarbi.
Day 6: Cirque de Jafaar - Midelt
Fitness/Endurance: Low
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
This is an easy tourending of less than 40 km with a lot of bumpy downhill. The day starts with a magnificent ride through the famous canyon of Cirque Jafaar. The cliffs to the left and the right of the canyon are easily hundred meters high.
Once out of the canyon gorge take a right uphill for the the last climb of the tour with not even 200m élevation. From here the small mountain road to Midelt descends north east. The landscape changes into a dry partly desertic highland. On km 17,5 we leave the road to Midelt and take a right for a very last climb towards the parallel valley and the famous Mines of Tattiouine (km26). From Tattiouine the road is paved and descends smoothly through the valley to Midelt, the final destination. Midelt is the commercial center of this province between the high and the middle Atlas.
Once out of the canyon gorge take a right uphill for the the last climb of the tour with not even 200m élevation. From here the small mountain road to Midelt descends north east. The landscape changes into a dry partly desertic highland. On km 17,5 we leave the road to Midelt and take a right for a very last climb towards the parallel valley and the famous Mines of Tattiouine (km26). From Tattiouine the road is paved and descends smoothly through the valley to Midelt, the final destination. Midelt is the commercial center of this province between the high and the middle Atlas.
Highlights and challEnges
- The morning ride through the canyon at Cirque de Jafaar and the mellow downhill rolling to Midelt that gives you time to recall all the impressions of this Atlas crossing
Cirque JafaarThe Circus of Jafaar is truly a nature spectacle. Its name describes the roman circus-like semicircle of steep mountain cliffs around a small valley at the foot of Mt. Jbel Ayyachi. It is particularly famous for hikers and the off-road 4x4 community who power their vehicles through the same trail we describe here. Highlight is the deep canyon of about 2 km that gives direct access to the small Jafaar valley from the north. When it rains this passage turns into a torrent. The different summits of over 3,000m (Ayachi, Akioud) surrounding the circus can be covered in snow and even feature fabulous sky touring tours in winter. There is no infrastructure but a few shepherd clay houses. Driss (see accommodations above) is one of the few local farmers with simple clay houses and stables for their animals. They welcome tourists and serve tee and berber pastry for those who have time to stay for a rest or even the night.
|
|
