Access and Logistics
Point of Departure: Barrage Moulay Youssef; Point of Arrival: Kalaat M’gouna
Easy access from Marrakech, approximately 1h30 to Barrage Moulay Youssef (also known as Barrage Ait Adel). Alternatively, start in Sidi Rahal (1h) or Demnate (2h), both accessible with public transportation. Arrival: return from Kalaat M’gouna possible by bus or local transport. Plan a minimum of 6h drive back to Marrakech. Plenty of small villages along the tour with possibilities to buy provisions. Mobile network available most of the route with exceptions on Day 2 (from Ifoulou to Magdaz) and on Day 3 until Amezri. |
Accomodation
Little touristic infrastructure, still basic mountain hostels on the way for every night. Call in advance as the owners are not used to last minute guests. Only very few other options exist along the route, limiting your options to change the daily itineraries.
Ait Tamlil (Day 1)
Auberge Les Coquelicots: comfortable and well run hostel by our network member Mohamed. Tel +212 673644266 Ifoulou (Alternative Day 1/2)
Gite Ifoulou: A beautiful alternative sleeping option in Ifoulou with the very welcoming mountain hostel of Hanini and his family, built directly on the Tessaoaut river. Tel +212 620582132 |
Ali n’Ito (Day 2)
GITE ASSOUNFOU: provides the comfort tired legs ask for. The establishment is professionally run, seems a bit over-dimensioned and is lacking a bit of cosiness compared with the other stays of the tour. Tel. 0668968263 Ait Alla (Day 3)
Gite D’Etappe Brahim Boukyoud: Brahim Boukyouds mountain hostel is a highlight in terms of Amazigh hospitality. Simple but with love for details and excellent food we will remember our stay. Tel +212 671086621 |
Kalaat M'Gouna (Day 4)
Kasbah Itran: Plenty of Options in and around Kalaat M’gouna or along the way in Bou Tharar. We chose the Kasbah Itran for its amazing view over Kalaat M’gouna and a bit of luxury for our final destination of the trip. Tel: 0524837103 |
Local Tourism Network
As all accommodation on the route is in professional mountain hostels, organisation of the whole trip is rather easy as long as you reserve in advance to avoid finding an accommodation being closed when you arrive. For additional information you can reach out to the members of the Atlas Mountain Trail network
As all accommodation on the route is in professional mountain hostels, organisation of the whole trip is rather easy as long as you reserve in advance to avoid finding an accommodation being closed when you arrive. For additional information you can reach out to the members of the Atlas Mountain Trail network
- Mohammed (Ait Tamlil) +212 673644266,
- Hanini (Ifoulou) +212 620582132,
- Brahim Boukyoud (Ait Alla) +212 671086621
Day 1: Barrage Moulay Youssef - Ait Tamlil
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
Start climbing on the east side of the Barrage Moulay Youssef on a steady dirt road through the light forest and green fields until reaching Tizi n’Maloulene at 1,600m altitude. Change of valley and first panorama on the Tessaout.
After around 7km, the track arrives on a paved road that descends to the Tessaout valley. The road now follows along the left side of the river crossing several Amazigh villages: Ait Moussa and Ait Oumdis (km 44).
Just after Ait Oumdis the road climbs north east on the left side of the river until reaching the highest point of the day, Tizi on 1.880. From this beautiful pine forest, start the last descent of the day to Ait Tamlil where you cross the provincial road connecting Demnate and Ouarzazate. Arrival at Ait Tamlil: Auberge Les Coquelicots.
After around 7km, the track arrives on a paved road that descends to the Tessaout valley. The road now follows along the left side of the river crossing several Amazigh villages: Ait Moussa and Ait Oumdis (km 44).
Just after Ait Oumdis the road climbs north east on the left side of the river until reaching the highest point of the day, Tizi on 1.880. From this beautiful pine forest, start the last descent of the day to Ait Tamlil where you cross the provincial road connecting Demnate and Ouarzazate. Arrival at Ait Tamlil: Auberge Les Coquelicots.
Highlights and challEnges
Beautiful start on the barrage Moulay Youssef through pine forests and the first spectacular views on the Tessaout Valley.
Sleeping
Auberge Les Coquelicots: comfortable and well run hostel by our network member Mohamed. Don’t miss breakfast on the beautiful roof terrace.
Background: Tessaout Valley and the legend of Mririda
One of the most important water sources of the Atlas Mountains, the Tessaout transforms in spring time during the snow melt to a raging torrent. Two sources coming from the peaks of Mt. Mgoun and Mt. Rat together form the Tessaout river which aliments the biggest river of Morocco Oum Rabia. The region of the Tessaout was until the 1920s marked in the french maps only as a “grey-zone without information” and it was only thanks to the work of Réné Euloge and his research and publications that the region became known to the western world. Around 1928 he met the poet and rebel Mirida, a young Amazigh woman from Magdaz. Rene Euloge, who spoke the Amazigh language perfectly, quickly understood the importance of her songs and poetry in a region where oral transmission is the sole heritage of Amazigh culture. After several trips to Tassaout to meet the poetess, he began transcribing her poems and songs, before translating them into French in a book entitled “Les chants de la Tassaout”.
The most faithful translation cannot fully restore the flavour of such poetry', writes Euloge in the preface to Chants de la Tassaout, which contains around 120 poems by Mririda. “As I listened to her sing of mountains and valleys, of daily village life, of family dramas, of joys and sorrows, I became convinced that at those moments she reached the highest elevation of thought and feeling, and that at the height of her lyrical flights, a kind of intoxication transfigured her, relieving her of earthly miseries”.
Sources: https://www.terresnomades.com/ , Gandini: Pistes du Maroc (Tome 1)
The most faithful translation cannot fully restore the flavour of such poetry', writes Euloge in the preface to Chants de la Tassaout, which contains around 120 poems by Mririda. “As I listened to her sing of mountains and valleys, of daily village life, of family dramas, of joys and sorrows, I became convinced that at those moments she reached the highest elevation of thought and feeling, and that at the height of her lyrical flights, a kind of intoxication transfigured her, relieving her of earthly miseries”.
Sources: https://www.terresnomades.com/ , Gandini: Pistes du Maroc (Tome 1)
Day 2: Ait Tamlil - Ait Ali n’Ito
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: High
Technicality: High
Short in kilometres but with some technical passages and 2km of hiking, day 2 offers some of the highlights of this tour. Leave early and plan enough time on the plateau of Tagoukht and to visit the Amazigh village of Magdaz. If you want to spend more time exploring this region, a beautiful option is to break the day in two and sleep one night in Ifoulou with the very welcoming Gite of Hanini and his family or try to stay in Magdaz in a local homestay (in 2023 the only gite was closed).
Starting in Ait Tamlil, follow the first 15km along the provincial road, direction south east along the Tessaout river on our right, with some spectacular views on steep canyons. In Toufghine (1,700 m) we leave the main road and take a left until the beautiful village of Ifoulou (km 17,5). Last option to buy water or snacks for the day and a nice option to refresh in the river. In Ifoulou, leave the road and cross the river, beginning a 700 hm climb. Start on the right hand side of a small side river affluent of the Tessaout. We cross the villages of Tasseln and Tagoukht, the inhabitants of the second are not particularly welcoming to travellers and we leave the houses on our right.
After Tagoukht make a sharp left turn and climb up a small single trail including some walking passages (attention on the wayfinding). After a kilometre you arrive on a beautiful plateau with abundance of water, trees and plantations (great picnic spot). Continue along the river on the right hand side. Cross between two sources (km26) and hike from now on very steep up the mountain on mule tracks. Half way up, a beautiful Azib (Shepherd shelters ) Tinrarine invites for a small break. If you are lucky, local shepherds are happy to offer you tea and locally produced butter.
Arrival at the Tizi n’Ougharghir at 2,462 m with great views of the valley of Magdaz to the east and Mount Tiglist (2,917m) to the south. Two single trails that both lead to Magdaz are clearly visible. Choose the right trail to Magdaz, offering a mix of technical and flow passages through the colourful earth with spectacular views on the valley of Magdaz. From Magdaz, roll down on the paved street for around 5km to our destination of the day: Ait n Ito.
Alternative Option: If carrying your bike is not an option for you or you simply want to cut the tour short, you can also decide in Ifoulou (km 17.5) to stay on the paved road left of the Tessaout river that leads straight to Ait Ali n’Ito (only 6km) and continue from there to explore the village of Magdaz.
Starting in Ait Tamlil, follow the first 15km along the provincial road, direction south east along the Tessaout river on our right, with some spectacular views on steep canyons. In Toufghine (1,700 m) we leave the main road and take a left until the beautiful village of Ifoulou (km 17,5). Last option to buy water or snacks for the day and a nice option to refresh in the river. In Ifoulou, leave the road and cross the river, beginning a 700 hm climb. Start on the right hand side of a small side river affluent of the Tessaout. We cross the villages of Tasseln and Tagoukht, the inhabitants of the second are not particularly welcoming to travellers and we leave the houses on our right.
After Tagoukht make a sharp left turn and climb up a small single trail including some walking passages (attention on the wayfinding). After a kilometre you arrive on a beautiful plateau with abundance of water, trees and plantations (great picnic spot). Continue along the river on the right hand side. Cross between two sources (km26) and hike from now on very steep up the mountain on mule tracks. Half way up, a beautiful Azib (Shepherd shelters ) Tinrarine invites for a small break. If you are lucky, local shepherds are happy to offer you tea and locally produced butter.
Arrival at the Tizi n’Ougharghir at 2,462 m with great views of the valley of Magdaz to the east and Mount Tiglist (2,917m) to the south. Two single trails that both lead to Magdaz are clearly visible. Choose the right trail to Magdaz, offering a mix of technical and flow passages through the colourful earth with spectacular views on the valley of Magdaz. From Magdaz, roll down on the paved street for around 5km to our destination of the day: Ait n Ito.
Alternative Option: If carrying your bike is not an option for you or you simply want to cut the tour short, you can also decide in Ifoulou (km 17.5) to stay on the paved road left of the Tessaout river that leads straight to Ait Ali n’Ito (only 6km) and continue from there to explore the village of Magdaz.
Highlights and challenges
Magdaz, one of the most preserved Amazigh Villages in the High Atlas, famous for its architecture of “Greniers” (fortified wheat storages) and cultural heritage (Box x)
The steep ascent of the day and a good hour of bike carrying is rewarded by a breathtaking single trail downhill through some of the most spectacular sceneries the Atlas Mountains have to offer.
The steep ascent of the day and a good hour of bike carrying is rewarded by a breathtaking single trail downhill through some of the most spectacular sceneries the Atlas Mountains have to offer.
Sleeping
GITE ASSOUNFOU: provides the comfort tired legs ask for. The establishment is professionally run, seems a bit over-dimensioned and is lacking a bit of cosiness compared with the other stays of the tour.
Background: MagdazOne of the most impressive villages of the Atlas Mountains, Magdaz is a classified UNESCO world heritage and concrete is forbidden until today. The village is built on the steep mountain in the same red and violet stones and turf of the earth and a jewel of Amazigh architecture. Magdaz counts around 10 fortified houses of up to 5 floors an, the oldest of which are dating back to the 17th century. Despite this, Magdaz is still almost unknown and the excluded geographical position has spared the village from major tourism. If you plan to spend some more time in Magdaz and its surrounding, plan a hike to the Waterfall of Magdaz (approx 3h hike), the locals can show you directions.
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Day 3: Ait Ali n’Ito - Ait Alla
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: Medium
Technicality: Medium
Take the small path behind the Gite and follow the Tessaout river bed through the picturesque villages of Ait Hamza (km 3) and Ishbaken (km 14) with several river crossings. The original dirt road used to get regularly flooded and difficult to cross for cars during the snow melting in spring. At the time of writing, an over-dimensioned paved road was under construction that unfortunately spoiled some of the charme of the beautiful canyon. Decide on the spot where to stay on the old road in the valley and when to take the new road that mounts on the left hand side of the canyon before coming back down to the river in Ishbaken (km 14).
After Ishbaken, the canyon gets narrower and the road continues on the left hand side along the river bed. In Amezri (km 25), we cross the Tessaout river and start a steep ascend towards the east on a paved road that crosses the Tizi n’Oulaoun (2.767m) southern extension of the Mgoun mountain chain and marks the highest point of the tour (km 32).
Pass Tizi n’Oulaoun that separates the north and southern rim of the Atlas mountain chain and join the Valley Ouad Ghalb. Descend on the paved road in serpentines for almost 20 kilometres until Ait Alla. Cross the river bed and climb another last 100hm until the Gite of Brahim Boukyoud and his wife outside the village with a beautiful view in the valley.
An alternative option for adventurous explorers could be to continue along the Tessaout from Amezri towards the source of the river until Tsagaiwalt, cross the river and climb up to the village of Tessaout. From there its single trails until 3.000hm before a steep and long descent on donkey tracks direction south that will lead you on a road (on approx. 2.300 hm) that ends up straight in Ait Atta (destination of day 4) - Disclaimer: the trails look very tempting on the map, however have not yet been ridden by the authors. Please share your experiences.
After Ishbaken, the canyon gets narrower and the road continues on the left hand side along the river bed. In Amezri (km 25), we cross the Tessaout river and start a steep ascend towards the east on a paved road that crosses the Tizi n’Oulaoun (2.767m) southern extension of the Mgoun mountain chain and marks the highest point of the tour (km 32).
Pass Tizi n’Oulaoun that separates the north and southern rim of the Atlas mountain chain and join the Valley Ouad Ghalb. Descend on the paved road in serpentines for almost 20 kilometres until Ait Alla. Cross the river bed and climb another last 100hm until the Gite of Brahim Boukyoud and his wife outside the village with a beautiful view in the valley.
An alternative option for adventurous explorers could be to continue along the Tessaout from Amezri towards the source of the river until Tsagaiwalt, cross the river and climb up to the village of Tessaout. From there its single trails until 3.000hm before a steep and long descent on donkey tracks direction south that will lead you on a road (on approx. 2.300 hm) that ends up straight in Ait Atta (destination of day 4) - Disclaimer: the trails look very tempting on the map, however have not yet been ridden by the authors. Please share your experiences.
Highlights and challenges
Tessaout Canyon landscape and traditional amazigh villages between Ait Hamza and Amezri.
Sleeping
Brahim Boukyouds gite is a highlight in terms of Amazigh hospitality. Simple but with love for details and excellent food we will remember our stay. Brahim has 25 years of mountaineering experience in tourism and was part of an infamous mountain excursion to Mgoun where a group of french alpinists got into a snow storm and had to camp several days in the snow without any connection to help. Brahim who had joined the excursion as a young porter survived and was rewarded for his courage with the tourism licence that allowed him to open his gite.
Day 4: Ait Atta - Kalaat M’gouna
Fitness/Endurance: Medium
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
Start the tour on the left side of the river, following some nice single trails crossing the villages in the outskirts of Ait Atta until crossing the river bed (km 4) to join the main road on the right hand side of the river. Leave the road (km 6) and take a sharp left, crossing the river again and take the valley coming from the north-east to start the main climb of the day. Stay on the right side of the river and leave the road (under construction during time of travel) to the right (km 16, 2,100hm) on a dirt road in rather bad condition. From here it is just another 1.5km to the highest pass of the day at 2,188m altitude.
From the pass the rest of the day it is mainly descending, but still more than 60km until the final destination. First through rocky valleys, then on forgotten high steppes. What out for caves that are used by nomadic shepherds for goat and sheep shelter. Passing through Ait Ayoub (km 33) and Allemdoum (km 44), finally a sign of life after the kilometres of barren steppe.
Roll through the touristic city of Bou Tharar (km 57) known for its Amazigh architecture and a well preserved Kasbah. If you are not ready yet to go back to the valley, Bou Tharar is a nice alternative end to the tour with plenty of sleeping options and less crowded than Kalaat M’gouna. A last 25 kilometres of rolling down towards Kalaat M’Gouna on a paved road that gets rather busy on the last few kilometres, watch out for the motorcycles and local taxis in the turns.
Alternative Option: In Allemdoum you have the option to follow the river bed straight south to Talemdoute and crossing a beautiful canyon (including walking passages) and leading to a side beautiful valley of (x), with many impressive Kasbahs. You will get back to the track on km 55 just before arriving at Bou Tharar.
From the pass the rest of the day it is mainly descending, but still more than 60km until the final destination. First through rocky valleys, then on forgotten high steppes. What out for caves that are used by nomadic shepherds for goat and sheep shelter. Passing through Ait Ayoub (km 33) and Allemdoum (km 44), finally a sign of life after the kilometres of barren steppe.
Roll through the touristic city of Bou Tharar (km 57) known for its Amazigh architecture and a well preserved Kasbah. If you are not ready yet to go back to the valley, Bou Tharar is a nice alternative end to the tour with plenty of sleeping options and less crowded than Kalaat M’gouna. A last 25 kilometres of rolling down towards Kalaat M’Gouna on a paved road that gets rather busy on the last few kilometres, watch out for the motorcycles and local taxis in the turns.
Alternative Option: In Allemdoum you have the option to follow the river bed straight south to Talemdoute and crossing a beautiful canyon (including walking passages) and leading to a side beautiful valley of (x), with many impressive Kasbahs. You will get back to the track on km 55 just before arriving at Bou Tharar.
Highlights and challenges
Surreal landscapes of the high steppe transform us during parts of the trips into a “wild west” scenery of long forgotten villages.
The Kasbah of Bou Tharar stands out as an exceptional monument in the heart of the Valley of the Roses. The geometric patterns adorning its towers are truly unique. Unfortunately, the passage of time has left significant marks on this kasbah.
After 4 days in the heart of the mountains, we have to face the return to “civilisation” with its infrastructure and noisy motorcycles. Particularly on the last kilometres the road can get busy, be mentally prepared and ride safely.
The Kasbah of Bou Tharar stands out as an exceptional monument in the heart of the Valley of the Roses. The geometric patterns adorning its towers are truly unique. Unfortunately, the passage of time has left significant marks on this kasbah.
After 4 days in the heart of the mountains, we have to face the return to “civilisation” with its infrastructure and noisy motorcycles. Particularly on the last kilometres the road can get busy, be mentally prepared and ride safely.
Sleeping
Plenty of Options in and around Kalaat M’gouna or along the way in Bou Tharar. We chose the Kasbah Itran for its amazing view over Kalaat M’gouna and a bit of luxury for our final destination of the trip.
Background: Kalaat M’Gouna and the valley of the rosesKelaat M’gouna constitutes an economic and social centre for the region and is most known for the "Roses Festival" which takes place in the city every year in May. The rose’s origin is still unknown, but a popular story suggests pilgrims brought it from Mecca. Today, the rose is not only the symbol of the region but also the main source of income for many families. Small cooperatives in the region produce rosewater and other cosmetics based on roses.
You find plenty of cooperatives that sell products extracted from the roses and if you have enough time they happily show you the production facilities or arrange to take you to the rose harvesting in their gardens (very early morning). Don’t expect a valley filled with fields of roses, as they grow in bushes very much spread and often hidden in private gardens. There are no major attractions in the Kalaat M’gouna, but you find all kinds of tourism infrastructure and it is a perfect base to discover the valleys around. |