Day 1: Taza to Bab Louta
Fitness/Endurance: Medium
Technicality: Medium
Technicality: Medium
Start at km 5 of the RN29 just outside Taza to avoid the national street and turn straight south-west on a gravel road into the national park Tazekka. A good warm up with rather easy uphill sections through green fields with plenty of water, olive forests and fields. First views on Jbel Tazekka (1.980m), highest mountain of the park. After 23 km join the provincial route coming from Taza just before the village of Bab Boudir (1.560m). We follow the paved road for around 10 km before we take a sharp left (km 32), descending a steep trail through a spectacular cork oak forest into the heart of the national park. Over 500 height metres of a beautiful downhill ride, between technical steep single trails and forest paths, lie ahead of you. Path finding is sometimes difficult, watch your navigation device attentively. On km 35 the forest gets very dense and the trail almost invisible, and we fight our way through the undergrowth until reaching the river in the valley of Mahfour. Arrival at the River Azhar (km 40), with the gravel road going north-west well visible on the other side of the valley, we follow through the forest towards the east on a 5km loop until we reach the easy crossing in the village of El Jem’a (960m) until joining the road on the other side. Roll down along the left river bank until reaching the paved road (km52) that leads straight to the lake of Bab Louta.
Highlights and challEnges
Wild cork oak forest in the heart of the Park and the forest paths leading along the river Mahfour with bathing opportunities
Challenge: The technical steep forest trails with a few hundred metres of difficult navigation in the undergrowth with vegetation taking over the trails
Challenge: The technical steep forest trails with a few hundred metres of difficult navigation in the undergrowth with vegetation taking over the trails
Sleeping
Relais de Tahla: several rooms and cabins with shared or private bathrooms with access to the lake. Basic rooms, with hunting style saloons and good services.
Background: Tessaout Valley and the legend of Mririda
One of the most important water sources of the Atlas Mountains, the Tessaout transforms in spring time during the snow melt to a raging torrent. Two sources coming from the peaks of Mt. Mgoun and Mt. Rat together form the Tessaout river which aliments the biggest river of Morocco Oum Rabia. The region of the Tessaout was until the 1920s marked in the french maps only as a “grey-zone without information” and it was only thanks to the work of Réné Euloge and his research and publications that the region became known to the western world. Around 1928 he met the poet and rebel Mirida, a young Amazigh woman from Magdaz. Rene Euloge, who spoke the Amazigh language perfectly, quickly understood the importance of her songs and poetry in a region where oral transmission is the sole heritage of Amazigh culture. After several trips to Tassaout to meet the poetess, he began transcribing her poems and songs, before translating them into French in a book entitled “Les chants de la Tassaout”.
The most faithful translation cannot fully restore the flavour of such poetry', writes Euloge in the preface to Chants de la Tassaout, which contains around 120 poems by Mririda. “As I listened to her sing of mountains and valleys, of daily village life, of family dramas, of joys and sorrows, I became convinced that at those moments she reached the highest elevation of thought and feeling, and that at the height of her lyrical flights, a kind of intoxication transfigured her, relieving her of earthly miseries”.
Sources: https://www.terresnomades.com/ , Gandini: Pistes du Maroc (Tome 1)
The most faithful translation cannot fully restore the flavour of such poetry', writes Euloge in the preface to Chants de la Tassaout, which contains around 120 poems by Mririda. “As I listened to her sing of mountains and valleys, of daily village life, of family dramas, of joys and sorrows, I became convinced that at those moments she reached the highest elevation of thought and feeling, and that at the height of her lyrical flights, a kind of intoxication transfigured her, relieving her of earthly miseries”.
Sources: https://www.terresnomades.com/ , Gandini: Pistes du Maroc (Tome 1)
Day 2: Bab Louta - Al Ansar
Fitness/Endurance: Low
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
Rather easy day crossing the Tazekka National Park from west to east between forest roads and paved streets. The day invites you to take it easy and stop at plenty of beautiful resting places. Leave early to avoid the heat, on the partly steep uphill in the first 18km. Go back the same road you arrived the day before and take a sharp right (km4) to leave the paved road and start to climb through a former forest that has been devastated by a recent fire that left only bizarre black sculptures where once was a forest. Catch the last views on the lake Bab Louta, riding through on the flank of the mountain through olive and cork oak forests. On a small plateau we find ourselves between farms and gardens with fruit trees (km17) and the indicated path disappears under the fields of wheat.
hmed, a local farmer, invites us for bread, olives and tea, a very welcome refreshment after the 700 m climb without much shade. A small loop north leads you again on the way that continues straight east and after another 10km we reach the highest point of the day on a lush pass (1,406 m). Join the provincial road (RP5411) coming down from Bab Boudir (km29) that we already crossed on the first day. The road leads along the beautiful river Ain El Kebira and soon the first view on majestic Mount Bouiblane far in the south, our direction for the next few days. From here we roll on a paved road, joining the RN29 (km 40) before reaching the Gite of Abdelkader on the right side of the road in Al Ansar.
hmed, a local farmer, invites us for bread, olives and tea, a very welcome refreshment after the 700 m climb without much shade. A small loop north leads you again on the way that continues straight east and after another 10km we reach the highest point of the day on a lush pass (1,406 m). Join the provincial road (RP5411) coming down from Bab Boudir (km29) that we already crossed on the first day. The road leads along the beautiful river Ain El Kebira and soon the first view on majestic Mount Bouiblane far in the south, our direction for the next few days. From here we roll on a paved road, joining the RN29 (km 40) before reaching the Gite of Abdelkader on the right side of the road in Al Ansar.
Highlights and challenges
Beautiful green valleys with plenty of olive trees and wild mountain flowers. Great swimming possibility at the river Ain El Kebir at the end of the tour. First views on Bouiblane Mountain chains, often covered with snow until late spring.
Challenge: Watch out for bees, we were unlucky and got into an aggressive bee swarm that left us with painful memories.
Challenge: Watch out for bees, we were unlucky and got into an aggressive bee swarm that left us with painful memories.
Sleeping
Chez Abdelkader (Al Ansar) : very cosy family run gîte with three generations under the same roof. Located straight on the road coming from Taza, outside the village of Al Ansar. Very clean and nicely decorated rooms with an inviting terrace covered with wine plants to enjoy the Berber tea in the shade. Highlight is the local Hamam heated with wood to relax tired muscles, reserve in advance.
Background: MagdazOne of the most impressive villages of the Atlas Mountains, Magdaz is a classified UNESCO world heritage and concrete is forbidden until today. The village is built on the steep mountain in the same red and violet stones and turf of the earth and a jewel of Amazigh architecture. Magdaz counts around 10 fortified houses of up to 5 floors an, the oldest of which are dating back to the 17th century. Despite this, Magdaz is still almost unknown and the excluded geographical position has spared the village from major tourism. If you plan to spend some more time in Magdaz and its surrounding, plan a hike to the Waterfall of Magdaz (approx 3h hike), the locals can show you directions.
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Day 3: Al Ansar to Ait Bou Hassan
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
Leaving the green valleys of Tazekka National Park and crossing the north flank of the Bouiblane Mountain range, scenery is drastically changing. Follow the small paved road descending just outside the guesthouse of Abdelkader for 3km before leading the paved road to the right. Almost immediately start descending for almost 10km, making fast progress as the day is still very long. Climb around 300 height metres over the pass of Jebel Ahmar (Red Mountain, 1,230m). On the top, an impressive view of the Ouad Melloulou valley is the compensation, together with another descent until the river (680m). The crossing can be challenging, depending on the water level, plan time for picnic and a swim in the river, a last refreshment before the dry landscapes.
After the crossing, a long ascent begins on a paved road that soon turns into gravel and you are entering desertic Arizona type landscapes. Village Ras el Ksar (km 41) visibly suffering from the lack of water is the last chance to buy provisions. If the shops are closed, insist and ask the locals, somebody will open for you. Continuing south, after a short descent we decided to continue climbing north east and crossing the northern edge of Bouiblane mountain chain Crossing the Pass Tizi Ouard (1,440m)
On the descent towards Aut Bou Hassan, a lot of construction for the new dam is currently going on. The Dam is expected to be finished in 2025 and will flood the whole area, including Ait Bou Hassan where we spent the night. The downhill offers some spectacular views into the canyons Igli Berkine. Arriving in Ait Bou Hassan, we ask the first local for a place to sleep, 10 minutes later we meet Hassan the “sheikh” of the village welcomes us and shows us the way to his house.
An alternative option we are excited to explore on our next trip is to stay north of the Bouiblane chain (km47) and continue south west through the villages of Beni Damal/Bou Mennoun and Imaichene before crossing the Bouiblane chain over the Tizi Oualmou pass (1,987m) and joining the tour after Berkine on Day 4. Sleeping options to be explored.
After the crossing, a long ascent begins on a paved road that soon turns into gravel and you are entering desertic Arizona type landscapes. Village Ras el Ksar (km 41) visibly suffering from the lack of water is the last chance to buy provisions. If the shops are closed, insist and ask the locals, somebody will open for you. Continuing south, after a short descent we decided to continue climbing north east and crossing the northern edge of Bouiblane mountain chain Crossing the Pass Tizi Ouard (1,440m)
On the descent towards Aut Bou Hassan, a lot of construction for the new dam is currently going on. The Dam is expected to be finished in 2025 and will flood the whole area, including Ait Bou Hassan where we spent the night. The downhill offers some spectacular views into the canyons Igli Berkine. Arriving in Ait Bou Hassan, we ask the first local for a place to sleep, 10 minutes later we meet Hassan the “sheikh” of the village welcomes us and shows us the way to his house.
An alternative option we are excited to explore on our next trip is to stay north of the Bouiblane chain (km47) and continue south west through the villages of Beni Damal/Bou Mennoun and Imaichene before crossing the Bouiblane chain over the Tizi Oualmou pass (1,987m) and joining the tour after Berkine on Day 4. Sleeping options to be explored.
Highlights and challenges
Very diverse landscapes and the river Oued Melloulou crossing.
Challenge: after the imminent flooding of the dam, the village of Ait Bou Hassane will probably disappear under water and with it the trails we were still riding in 2024. Update yourself when planning your trip with the Atlas Mountain Trail network and along the way (see also alternative option).
Challenge: after the imminent flooding of the dam, the village of Ait Bou Hassane will probably disappear under water and with it the trails we were still riding in 2024. Update yourself when planning your trip with the Atlas Mountain Trail network and along the way (see also alternative option).
Sleeping
No official accommodation. Arriving in Ait Bou Hassan, we ask the first local for a place to sleep, 10 minutes later we meet Hassan the “sheikh” of the village welcomes us and shows us the way to his house.
Day 4: Ait Bou Hassan - Beni Boujloul
Fitness/Endurance: High
Technicality: Low
Technicality: Low
This is the longest and toughest leg of the tour, following the Bouiblane mountain chain on the south side and entering the Mount Bou Naceur massif. Extended passages on a partly paved provincial road. Start early to avoid the heat on the lower segments at the beginning of the tour with little to no shade. Leaving Ait Bou Hassan to the east until reaching the provincial road RP5427 coming from Guercif and heading west to Barkine the administrative centre of the district (km 20). In Barkine you find well organised shops to add to your provisions. Continue another 7km of partly steep uphill until reaching the first pass on 1,580m. After a quick descent the real climb of the day begins with 15km and 700m altitude until reaching the Tizi n Tiza between the volcanic summits of the Volcan Tizgui Tamkrent and Tazizaout. On the pass several nomadic shepherds curiously observethe travellers from a distance.
Half way on the descent we leave the provincial road (km54), take a sharp left crossing a river bed and towards the beautiful and lifely Amazigh village of Tamjilte. This is the last moment to have a network signal until reaching the valleys of Oulaed Ali Youssef on the next day. Tamjilte has no official hostel, but some locals have experience in hosting travellers and it is a good alternative option to stay the night here.
Leaving Tamjilte the road follows straight south and enters the Bou Naceur massif with a change in scenery that quickly becomes more alpine with some beautiful forest's and some last remaining céder trees that have heavily diminished in the last ten years due to climate change. Arrival in the last village of the valley, the very authentic Beni Boujloul. The village has suffered from climate change and its extreme isolation, though also kept a traditional adobe architecture and no concrete has polluted the traditional way of building. We are received in the most authentic way possible, sleeping in the house of Hassan and his brother, directly over the goats and sheep.
Half way on the descent we leave the provincial road (km54), take a sharp left crossing a river bed and towards the beautiful and lifely Amazigh village of Tamjilte. This is the last moment to have a network signal until reaching the valleys of Oulaed Ali Youssef on the next day. Tamjilte has no official hostel, but some locals have experience in hosting travellers and it is a good alternative option to stay the night here.
Leaving Tamjilte the road follows straight south and enters the Bou Naceur massif with a change in scenery that quickly becomes more alpine with some beautiful forest's and some last remaining céder trees that have heavily diminished in the last ten years due to climate change. Arrival in the last village of the valley, the very authentic Beni Boujloul. The village has suffered from climate change and its extreme isolation, though also kept a traditional adobe architecture and no concrete has polluted the traditional way of building. We are received in the most authentic way possible, sleeping in the house of Hassan and his brother, directly over the goats and sheep.
Highlights and challenges
Highest pass of the tour, with nomads and great views on the Bouiblane and Bou Naceur chains as well as the volcanic mountain formations. Very beautiful and authentic Amazigh villages of Tamjilte and Beni Boujloul. Be prepared for a very long day, start early.
Sleeping
We are received in the most authentic way possible, sleeping in the house of Hassan and his brother, directly over the goats and sheep. Washing and toilet situation is very basic as there is no running water or canalisation in the village. The basic comfort is worth it for the experience and the very welcoming brothers and great food. Contact +212 611071029.
Day 4: Beni Boujloul - Ouled Ali Youssef
Fitness/Endurance: Medium
Technicality: High
Technicality: High
The day starts with one very steep climb on a single trail of 700hm that starts straight at the entrance of the village and is all hiking. Consider taking a mule (2 bikes per mule) to avoid carrying the bikes. The trail leads through the remains of cedar forests, mainly destroyed through climate change during the last 10 years. Arrival of the highest mountain pass of the tour (2,630m), a flank of the Bou Naceur mountain chain, with great views on the summit and towards the south side of the mountain range and plains further east.
From the pass, an old stone road is very well visible along the mountain's flank on your left. You start the descent over the old road, watch the big rocks and spiky plants, both dangerous for tires and derailleurs. The 10 km of downhill is very tiring and demands full concentration. Half way down you can spot the first spectacular terraces of the Valley of Oualed Ali Youssef, the destination of the tour. On Km 17 we reach the provincial road RP5125 just outside the village of Timitar. From here on the paved road descends on the left side of the valley with spectacular views on some of the most impressive Amazigh terraces in the Atlas Mountains. Arrival of the tour in the beautiful village of Oualed Ali, that almost appears as a small town after the days in the very excluded valleys between Bouiblane and Bou Naceur.
Alternative Option: Consider adding another 5 km for a bath in a breathtaking waterfall. Once arriving at the provincial road, go right (instead of left) and after crossing the village of Timitar take the gravel road going down left to a small bridge crossing on the other side of the river to the Amazigh village of Ait Hassan in the terraces. At the level of the bridge a small trail following the riverbed the the north leads to a dead end with two breathtaking waterfalls of Ait Hassan.
From the pass, an old stone road is very well visible along the mountain's flank on your left. You start the descent over the old road, watch the big rocks and spiky plants, both dangerous for tires and derailleurs. The 10 km of downhill is very tiring and demands full concentration. Half way down you can spot the first spectacular terraces of the Valley of Oualed Ali Youssef, the destination of the tour. On Km 17 we reach the provincial road RP5125 just outside the village of Timitar. From here on the paved road descends on the left side of the valley with spectacular views on some of the most impressive Amazigh terraces in the Atlas Mountains. Arrival of the tour in the beautiful village of Oualed Ali, that almost appears as a small town after the days in the very excluded valleys between Bouiblane and Bou Naceur.
Alternative Option: Consider adding another 5 km for a bath in a breathtaking waterfall. Once arriving at the provincial road, go right (instead of left) and after crossing the village of Timitar take the gravel road going down left to a small bridge crossing on the other side of the river to the Amazigh village of Ait Hassan in the terraces. At the level of the bridge a small trail following the riverbed the the north leads to a dead end with two breathtaking waterfalls of Ait Hassan.
Highlights and challenges
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Sleeping
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Background: Kalaat M’Gouna and the valley of the rosesKelaat M’gouna constitutes an economic and social centre for the region and is most known for the "Roses Festival" which takes place in the city every year in May. The rose’s origin is still unknown, but a popular story suggests pilgrims brought it from Mecca. Today, the rose is not only the symbol of the region but also the main source of income for many families. Small cooperatives in the region produce rosewater and other cosmetics based on roses.
You find plenty of cooperatives that sell products extracted from the roses and if you have enough time they happily show you the production facilities or arrange to take you to the rose harvesting in their gardens (very early morning). Don’t expect a valley filled with fields of roses, as they grow in bushes very much spread and often hidden in private gardens. There are no major attractions in the Kalaat M’gouna, but you find all kinds of tourism infrastructure and it is a perfect base to discover the valleys around. |